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~ warp, weave, be happy!

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Category Archives: Tips

Inkle Shoelace Aglets: How To

28 Tuesday May 2013

Posted by Jennifer Williams a.k.a. inkledpink in Tips, Tutorials

≈ 17 Comments

Tags

aglets, Boston Marathon, fabric stiffener, heat tool, shoelace tips, shoelaces, shrink tubing, tutorials

Did you know that the little plastic tips on the end of your shoelaces have a name?

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Of course they have a name, everything has a name right? But, there are some things we can go a lifetime not knowing the name of, like the name of the little plastic tips on the end of your shoelaces.

They are called aglets. I learned this as I researched how to finish the ends of the shoelaces I am weaving to raise money for the Boston Marathon victims. (You can read more about that effort here.)

While investigating, I came across a post on the blog A Spinner Weaver, written by fellow inkle weaver Annie MacHale, about a pair of shoelaces she wove and the dilemma of how to finish the edges. The discussion in the comments section of the post sparked the method I came up with for making my shoelace tips. Take a look and let me know what you think.

Materials I used:

-10/2 mercerized cotton (to weave the laces and wrap the tips). My laces have 30 warp ends – 15 heddled and 15 unheddled.
-3/32 heat shrink tubing (from Skycraft Surplus, comes in 4’ lengths)
-fabric stiffener (I used Plaid brand Stiffy Fabric Stiffener – but any brand will do)
-heat gun/tool (I tried a hair dryer, but it just doesn’t get hot enough to shrink the plastic tubing thoroughly. It would come off with a bit of a tug. So, I bought a Darice brand heat tool at Joann Fabric and Craft Stores with a 50% off coupon – Yay!) *I don’t suggest using glue. It scorched under the plastic tubing from the heat.

Other tools:

scissors
ruler
permanent marker
cutting mat
rotary cutter or craft blade

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Measure, mark, and cut fringe to desired length of shoelace tip plus at least an additional 1/2″. You’ll need this to hold onto.

Lay a loop of thread or yarn about 6" long, down the center of the fringe and shoelace. This will be used to secure the tail of the wrapping at the end.

Lay a loop of thread or yarn about 6″ long, down the center of the fringe and shoelace. This will be used to secure the tail of the wrapping at the end.

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Wrap a piece of size 10/2 yarn, about 16″ long, tightly around the fringe, being sure to start at the last row of weaving.

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Once you have wrapped to the desired length, insert the tail into the loop as pictured.

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Pull the loop (orange yarn) until it goes under the wrapping.

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Continue to pull the loop until the tail comes out the bottom.

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When you pull the tail all the way through, the top should settle in and be neat and snug. Closely clip the tail.

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Trim the fringe to approximately 1/4″ above the top of the wrapping. Dip the tip into the bottle of fabric stiffener. Do not shake off the excess. It will dry clear.

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Once the tip is dry, use the rotary cutter to slice off the fringe. This gives a nice clean edge to feed into the tubing.

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Cut a piece of tubing 1/2″ longer than the tip length. Insert the tip into the tubing. You will need to twist, push, pull, shove, and cajole the tip into the tubing. It is a tight fit. This is what helps it stay without glue. After the tubing is on, cut it down to be level with the top of the tip. Shrink the tubing with the heat tool, being careful not to burn the shoelace, tubing or your fingers!. You are finished and have a beautiful shoelace tip.

If you are looking for information on how to weave a shoelace, the article by Brianna Lancaster, daughter of talented weaver Daryle Lancaster, on Weavezine is very good. Also, I found this site dedicated to shoelaces. Fascinating stuff.

How have you ended your shoelaces? Do you have any tips or suggestions?

warp, weave, be happy!

Jennifer

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Part 2: Sample, Sample, Sample

17 Wednesday Apr 2013

Posted by Jennifer Williams a.k.a. inkledpink in Tips, Yarn

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

pick-up, samples, stash, yarn

Two skeins of lusciously beautiful 100% Egyptian cotton yarn are en route to me as I type this. I wait; not so patiently… The skeins, balls really, do not have a lot of yardage in them, so I know I am going to want to sample the yarn before I attempt a band with it.

The last time I sampled a warp, I tied each warp end on individually, but I wanted a more efficient method to accomodate sampling a warp with more ends. So, in preparation for the goodies soon to arrive, I dug in my stash and found a skein of inexpensive acylic yarn that I bought because I liked the colors, but had no plans for, and tweeked my method a bit.
IMG_5997

This time, I tied the warp on in groups instead of individually.
Inkle-sample-method-2 Inkle-sample-method-2-(2)

And, I warped over the top back peg. This kept the heddled and unheddled warp yarns laid neatly in place even though they were tied in groups.
Inkle-sample-method-2-(7)     Warp going over back peg and tied into groups.

A surprising result of tying the warp on in groups is that the groups wanted to twist. But, they easily straighten out with a few toothpicks inserted at the beginning of weaving (or what every you have on hand).
Inkle-sample-method-2-(4) Inkle-sample-method-2-(5)

The sample band, including fringe is only 16 inches long. Even my mini inkle loom can not make a band that short.Inkle-sample-method-band

The length and width were just right to understanding this yarn. From sampling I learned:

– This yarn is “toothy”, meaning it sticks to itself and needs to be coaxed apart at each pick. The skein is really soft, so I wasn’t expecting this.
-This yarn is self-striping. The label did not indicate this. I was hoping for a more verigated dye pattern.
-This yarn is not a good choice for weft. The pulling, tugging, and passing through the shed weakened it and caused the yarn to break. I switched to a cotton weft, which was thinner and smoother than the warp, and it worked much better.

I would call these tweeks a sampling success. Based on this sample band, I know this yarn is not good as a weft or as a stand alone warp yarn. Possibly, I will use it for an accent or  a pick-up yarn in a band. Hmmm…

warp, weave, be happy!

~Jennifer

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Sample, Sample, Sample

26 Tuesday Mar 2013

Posted by Jennifer Williams a.k.a. inkledpink in Tips

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

inkle band, inkle loom, leather lacing, nylon yarn, samples, warp

My weaving study group teacher is always saying SAMPLE, SAMPLE, SAMPLE. It makes complete sense to sample. Mistakes and discoveries about yarn type, color, etc. can be made before delving into the final project and save a lot of time and money.

How do you sample inkle weaving. Heck, compared to a floor loom warp inkle loom warps are sample size. Even though I’m planning a narrow band, only 19 warp ends, warped at the shortest length it still uses 19 yards of my limited quantity and expensive warp material. I’m sampling leather. $$$ You get the picture.

Here’s what I came up with:

I cut 19 ten inch lengths of the leather. Then, I cut 19 pieces of an inexpensive nylon yarn (it was the first thing I grabbed) and tied each to one end of each leather piece. The nylon pieces were long enough to tie to the front peg of the loom. At the other end of the leather, I tied it to the nylon yarn without cutting it from the spool.

Nylon tied to both ends to make one long warp end.

Nylon tied to both ends to make one long warp end.

Then, I wound that warp end onto the loom, cutting it from the spool when I got back to the beginning; tying it off.

Warp ends individually tied to the front warp peg.

Warp ends individually tied to the front warp peg.

Top of warp ends tied to the nylon yarn.

Top of warp ends tied to the nylon yarn.

Top of leather/ nylon warp heddled and unheddled.

Top of leather/ nylon warp heddled and unheddled.

Side view of leather/ nylon warp threads.

Side view of leather/ nylon warp threads.

Usually, I don’t tie-off each warp thread individually, but it worked well here. I have woven and taken out three different weft materials so far. The leather has a memory, so the weaving leaves it a bit wavy. I’d hate to do that if it were a real warp.

I do have a lovely mini-loom that I use for sampling when the material isn’t so precious. I’m curious to know what other people do to sample inkle weaving.

warp, weave, be happy! ~ Jenifer

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The Warp Stops Here

22 Friday Feb 2013

Posted by Jennifer Williams a.k.a. inkledpink in Tips

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

inkle loom, o-rings, perle cotton, rubber jump rings, warp, Weaving

Does this ever happen to you?
You are weaving away on a wide inkle warp and it slips off a peg.Inkle-Warp-slipping-off-peg
I have this affliction which causes me to design inkle warps that end up wider than I intended resulting in warp slippage.

This very wide warp has 132 10/2 perle cotton warp ends.
Wide-inkle-warp

My solution? Rubber o-rings, also known as rubber jump rings.
Wide-inkle-warp-with-rubber

inkle-band-warp-with-rubber

full-inkle-warp-w.-rubber-o

The beauty of using rubber jump rings is that they are available in so many sizes and fun colors; plus they are fairly inexpensive. You can purchase them almost anywhere that sells jewelry making supplies. Or you can go to your local hardware store and get some rubber o-ring washers. I think they are in the plumbing section. Unfortunately, the ones at the hardware store only come in black, which is not nearly as fun!

warp, weave, be happy!

~Jennifer

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